Protecting Knitwear from Moths and Pilling

By The Art of Layering Delicate Necklaces
Comments 35
19 Jul 2026

Protecting Knitwear from Moths and Pilling

Know What You Are Up Against

Clothes moths are not fussy eaters, but they do have a type. The larvae feed on keratin, the protein found in wool, cashmere, mohair, angora and silk, which is why your best winter knits are always the first to suffer. Adult moths do not eat at all; they simply lay eggs in dark, still, slightly humid places, and a quiet wardrobe or under-bed storage box is ideal. The damage is done by small cream-coloured larvae that hatch, feed and leave behind telltale signs: pinprick holes, silky webbing along seams, and a gritty dust that collects beneath folded jumpers.

It helps to think of moths as a symptom rather than the whole problem. They are drawn to soiled fibres, so a jumper worn against skin and put away unwashed is an open invitation. They also avoid light and movement, which is why the pieces at the bottom of a neglected pile suffer first.

Wash or Clean Before You Store

This is the single most effective habit you can build. Even if a jumper looks pristine, it carries invisible traces of perspiration, natural oils and food. Wash it or have it dry cleaned at the end of the season before it goes away, without exception.

Hand wash or use a wool cycle at 30°C or cooler, with a pH-neutral, non-biological detergent. Biological powders contain enzymes that digest protein fibres, so they will slowly weaken wool.
Skip fabric softener. It coats the fibres, makes them slippery and encourages pilling.
Dry flat and shape while damp, well away from radiators and direct sun, which can shrink and fade wool.

If you buy vintage or second-hand knitwear, treat it as though it might already be infested. Bag it, freeze it and clean it before it goes anywhere near your wardrobe.

Store Woollens in Breathable Bags

Plastic bins and dry-cleaning bags trap moisture, and damp wool is exactly what moths want. Choose breathable cotton storage bags, cotton pillowcases or acid-free tissue paper inside a lidded box. Fold rather than hang, because hanging stretches shoulders and distorts the shape of a good jumper.

Cedar and lavender are pleasant deterrents rather than killers. Cedar oil loses its potency over time, so sand the wood lightly every few months to refresh it. A few drops of lavender oil on a cotton pad will do more than a dried bunch. If you suspect activity, pheromone traps will catch adult males and break the breeding cycle, giving you an early warning system. Avoid old-fashioned moth balls; the smell lingers in fibres for months.

Rotate and Rest Your Favourites

The jumper you reach for every third day will pill and sag long before the one at the back of the drawer. Aim to give each knit at least twenty-four to forty-eight hours of rest between wears so the fibres can recover their bounce.

Air pieces overnight on a hanger or flat on a towel before folding them away.
Keep only the current season in reach and store the rest properly, so nothing sits undisturbed for months on end.
Handle your stored knitwear occasionally. Simply moving and refolding a drawer disturbs the conditions moths prefer.

Understanding Pilling

Bobbles form when short fibres work loose from the yarn and tangle together, usually where friction is greatest: under the arms, at the cuffs, along the seatbelt line and where a shoulder bag rubs. Softer, loftier yarns such as cashmere and lambswool are more prone, as are loosely spun yarns and blends. A little pilling in the first few wears is normal and not necessarily a mark of poor quality; it is simply loose fibre escaping.

You can slow it down by reducing agitation: wash less often, never tumble dry, wear a smooth-fabric coat rather than a rough wool one over a delicate knit, and let handbags rest on the shoulder rather than across the chest.

De-Pilling Gently, and Washing Without Making It Worse

When bobbles do appear, treat them slowly. Lay the garment flat and smooth, then use an electric fabric shaver in short, light passes, keeping the surface taut and avoiding seams, ribbing and buttons. Clean the blade often, and never press down hard. For finer knits, a cashmere comb used in one direction is kinder than any electric tool. A sweater stone works well on heavier, felted pilling. Resist the urge to pull bobbles off by hand or attack them with scissors or a razor; you will drag fresh fibres to the surface and create a hole.

Wash knitwear inside out in a mesh laundry bag, and support it with both hands when lifting it from the water so it does not stretch. Never wring. Press the water out, roll the piece in a clean towel, then dry it flat and reshape the neckline, cuffs and hem while it is still damp.

Finally, learn to spot clean. A splash of white wine or a spot of oil does not require a full wash. Blot, treat gently with a little cool water and wool detergent, and let it dry flat. Fewer washes, better storage and a patient hand with the de-piller will keep your knitwear looking quietly expensive for many winters to come.

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5 Comments

Robert Sonny says Jul 21, 2024 at 10:00am

I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
Reply
- John Abraham says Jul 21, 2024 at 10:00am
  
  I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
  Reply
  - Robert Sonnysays Jul 21, 2024 at 10:00am
    
    I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
    Reply
Robert Sonny says Jul 21, 2024 at 10:00am

I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
Reply

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